Succulent Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani and a World More: A Historic Indian City Gains Recognition on the UNESCO Culinary List.
Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.